Tavern Spirits: The Legend of Walker House, part two

[You’ll enjoy this article more if you read the first article, containing parts I-V, first! Parts I-V include: (I) the Berry Inn Ball; (II) the Berry Inn Brawl; (III) Caffee in Hiding; (IV) Trying Times; and (V) Conversations with Caffee. That article discussed the murder of Sam Southwick by William Caffee after a dance at the old Berry Inn, pleas for Caffee’s release, and his escape, re-imprisonment and trial. Caffee was sentenced to hang. The second half of this series tells what seems the end of Caffee’s story… but for Mineral Point’s Walker House, it was just the beginning!]

Despite the “Walker House 1836” signage, the famous old building could not possibly have been built in 1836, and it almost certainly did not exist in 1842, when Caffee killed Southwick. Why, then, have many people reported that the ghost of the hanged man, and others, haunt the premises?

Part Six: Execution Myths

None of the original accounts of Caffee and Southwick mention an inn or any other landmarks at the hanging location. The Walker House was not yet built, despite its supposed establishment in 1836. Jack Holzhueter of the Wisconsin State Historical Society states that the building’s lot “wasn’t even purchased from the government until 1845” (Lewis and Terry, 80; Peterson). Additionally, founder William Walker did not move from Ireland to the United States until 1847 (“Relatively Haunted”). Berry’s Tavern, where Caffee actually shot Southwick, is much older. It is therefore safe to say that Caffee did not hang next to Wisconsin’s oldest inn.

Caffee hung from wooden gallows, not from a tree, and his was not the last execution in the state. Public domain photo.

Caffee also did not hang from a tree, as some versions of the story claim. Instead, a scaffold was placed on part of the “low ground below town, surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills which were literally covered by the eager multitude” (“Caffee’s Execution”). According to an 1893 issue of the Iowa County Democrat, the execution took place “where the Mineral Point depot now stands” (“Death of Warren Johnson”).

The hanging took place on the site of what’s now the old Mineral Point train Depot, about 100 yards from the Walker House. Photo by Terry Burns.

This description provides the exact location of the hanging. The Mineral Point Depot, constructed in 1856, still stands today across from the Walker House (“Mineral Point Railroad Museum”). Caffee’s hanging was also not the last execution in Wisconsin. John McCaffrey’s hanging takes that spot, and thousands of people flocked to Kenosha to watch the murderer die in 1851 (Historic Madison Inc.). McCaffrey had drowned his wife, Bridgett, in a well (Historic Madison, Inc.; “Wife-slayer hung”). In 1853, the death penalty was abolished in Wisconsin (Gajewski).

Part Seven: The Fateful Day

On November 1st, 1842, thousands of curious Wisconsinites flocked to the Mineral Point hanging site. It was a pleasant fall day, and the spectators occupied themselves with picnic lunches and conversation before the grand attraction arrived. The crowd of 4,000-5,000 was diverse, with people of “every age, sex, color, and condition…fully represented” (“Execution of Caffee”).

Hanging of William Caffee
Wood print from The Story of Mineral Point 1827-1841, “Compiled by the Writers’ Program of the Work Projects Administration” during the Great Depression, courtesy of Friends of Berry Tavern. Notice how Caffee is carried to the gallows seated on his own coffin.

At two o’clock, a macabre parade assembled in front of the local jail (“Execution of Caffee”). At the front was Major Gray’s dragoons wielding pistols and sabers. Second was a band of uniformed men with muskets under the charge of Captain Shaw. Next was a series of horse-drawn wagons, one of which contained Caffee’s coffin (“Execution of Caffee”). Deputies brought him out in a long white robe and a cap, with a rope already tied around his neck. Caffee may have specially requested the robe, as white garments symbolized “entry into heaven” at the time (Miller).

Instead of taking a seat in the front of a wagon, Caffee sat astride his own casket. The rest of Shaw’s command followed Caffee’ wagon. Finishing off the assembly was Colonel Sublett’s company of dragoons (“Execution of Caffee”). There must have been some musicians in the group as well because a funeral dirge accompanied the strange procession. Caffee enjoyed the music, keeping beat to the melody by striking his coffin lid. Many accounts say he used two empty beer bottles, though he probably just used his fists (Lewis and Terry, 80-81; Godfrey, 39). In either case, Caffee made himself memorable.

The procession supposedly traveled down High Street and Commerce Street to the outskirts of town. A posse of seven Black Hawk War veterans kept the crowd thirty feet away from the hanging site. They wore handmade uniforms made from blankets and bed ticking (Carted). Warren Johnson led the group with a sword that he had never gotten to use in the war (“Death of Warren Johnson”; Carted). When Caffee arrived, sheriff George Messersmith helped him up the stairs to the gallows. Reverend Wilcox, who frequently visited Caffee in prison, also climbed the stairs and prayed for Caffee’s redemption in God’s eyes (“Execution of Caffee”).

An example of the old-style sheriff’s gallows. Photo courtesy of Sierra County Sheriff’s Gallows

Caffee showed no emotion during the whole ordeal. In prison, he had bragged about being able to “stare death out of countenance.” (“Execution of Caffee, Breihan et al.). His nonchalant attitude at the hanging seemed to prove this point. During speeches and prayers, Caffee leaned casually on one of the scaffold posts until it was time for the grim ceremony to end (“Execution of Caffee”). The sheriff asked Caffee if he had any last requests. Always the jokester, Caffee replied that he wanted the rope adjusted “with a good long slack” (“Execution of Caffee”).

Earlier that day, he had allegedly asked for a slice of Judge Jackson’s heart as his final meal (Gajewski; Godfrey, 39). The sheriff did the honors of pulling the cap over Caffee’s face, pulling the lever on the scaffold, and ending his existence (“Execution of Caffee”). Legend has it that Caffee’s friends tried to restore him to life, but he remained dead (Crawford 112; “Execution of Caffee”). Or did he?

Part Eight: The Haunting of the Walker House

The Walker House may well be one of America’s most haunted inns. William Caffee’s spirit is said to roam the halls, appearing in various forms to guests and employees alike. According to Becky Busher, a former Walker House employee, he “lives” on the third floor (Peterson). Some people also claim to see the apparition of a little girl who plays on the upper floors with a ghost cat and ghost dog (“Relatively Haunted”). It is unclear why they inhabit the building. Mysterious footsteps, voices from nowhere, and flying objects make the Walker House spirits seem almost cliché. But unlike most ghosts, William Caffee and his friends do not mean to hurt anyone. If anything, they may be trying to help with the building. They seem to like taking part in renovation plans, as they show up the most while the property is being refurbished.

The ghost began to appear when new owners started to restore the property. This is how Walker House looked in the 1960s.

Reports of the building’s strange activity began in 1964 when Ted Landon purchased the run-down property with dreams of restoring it to its original glory. The place had been abandoned since 1957, and fixing it brought unprecedented challenges (Godfrey 39; Norman and Scott, 452 – 453 Haunted Heartland). Aside from the substantial financial investment, Landon had to deal with spooky visitors while he organized repairs. He heard unknown footsteps and creepy breathing sounds that seemed to follow him wherever he worked. In 1978, Landon had enough and sold the building to Dr. David Ruf. One of Ruf’s first guests, a college student from Madison, left due to hearing the doorknobs constantly rattle while he was trying to sleep (Norman and Scott, 453 Haunted Heartland).

Part Nine: Calvert’s New Friends

Eager for some help, Dr. Ruf hired Walker Calvert (a descendent of the original owner, William Walker) to be his property manager and chef. Calvert started noticing paranormal events right away. Most afternoons, a wooden panel covering the water pipes would slide to one side on its own, before falling to the ground (Norman and Scott, 453-454 Haunted Heartland). It looked almost like some invisible person was inspecting the plumbing. But floating objects were commonplace compared to what Calvert would come to experience at the Walker House. In the late 1970s, Calvert had at least three chats with Caffee’s ghost. Employees would hear two men talking in the dining room, but when they came in, only Walker was there (Norman and Scott, 454 Haunted Heartland). Walker could not remember who he had been talking to or what they discussed. He spoke with the person in a semi-hypnotic state, never realizing that his conversation partner was not “real.”

Before his afternoon discussions with Calvert, Caffee helped the employees make breakfast. Early in the morning, before anyone had started cooking, Caffee was already getting the pots and pans together (Norman and Scott, 454 Haunted Heartland). He also liked to move the breadbox (Peterson). The clanging noises could be heard outside as kitchenware flew across the room. Workers in the kitchen felt like they were being watched, judged even. One cook refused to work in the kitchen alone (Peterson). Some employees had a difficult time getting into the building, as the door would lock on its own. Caffee usually locked up early at night, much to the dismay of Calvert and everyone working the late shift (Norman and Scott, 456 Haunted Heartland). It seemed that Caffee wanted to control who went in and out. Caffee’s ghost did not appreciate crowds very much, which is understandable considering the ruckus when he died (Balousek, 45). However, he was fond of certain people and would let them in. One morning, when Calvert and his wife Linda were opening up, Caffee was there to greet them with a disembodied “Hello!” (Norman and Scott, 457 Haunted Heartland).

Caffee’s ghost seemed to like places in Walker House where alcohol was being served. Photo courtesy of HauntedHouses.com.

Ever the partier, Caffee made sure to keep tabs on the alcohol. A bartender on the second floor was taking stock of the glassware when he heard heavy breathing and footsteps. After asking the ghost to leave him alone, he heard the noise slowly fade away (Norman and Scott, 455 Haunted Heartland). When they waitresses served drinks, they often bumped into something invisible but substantial (Peterson). Out of the corner of their eye, some of them saw “a white shape” (Norman and Scott, 454 Haunted Heartland). Occasionally, a beer bottle would fall to the floor without anyone disturbing it. If the legend that Caffee swung beer bottles on his coffin is true, he may have been confirming his identity (Norman and Scott, 458 Haunted Heartland).

little girl ghost
The ghost of a little girl also sometimes appeared… (public domain photo… sorry, this is not the actual ghost!)

Calvert commented in an interview with Beth Scott and Michael Norman that “The ghost was always doing something. It was as if he tried to prove to everyone in the Walker House that he was there” (455 Haunted Heartland). One of the ghosts, either the little girl or Caffee, loves to tug on people’s ears and hair. The little girl was more likely responsible for scaring Calvert in the root cellar. On a summer day in 1981, Calvert heard someone running up and down the cellar’s wooden steps “over and over again, like a child at play” (Norman and Scott, 456 Haunted Heartland). The cellar was well lit with electric light, but Calvert could not see anything that could have made the sound. The walls were made of thick rock, blocking out any noises from outside. The ghosts seemed to be visiting Calvert, and this was just the beginning of his encounters.

One day, Calvert was working in the office when he heard footsteps approaching. They stopped at his door. When Calvert got up to open the door and investigate, he did not see anyone. Everything was normal until he heard a low groan, which intensified into a horrendous growl (Norman and Scott, 455 Haunted Heartland). This noise may have been the ghost dog, or Caffee playing a prank. Either way, Calvert would never forget the experience.

Walker Calvert saw the ghost of Caffee sitting on this porch in 1981. Notice that at that time the “Walker House 1836” sign was on the other end of the building from where it hands today.

Calvert finally saw what appeared to be Caffee’s spirit in 1981. It was a cool October evening, and the atmosphere was perfect for a ghost sighting. Calvert was checking the door that opened from the second-floor barroom onto the porch. As he walked outside, Calvert was shocked to find a headless figure sitting on the bench. He looked old and wore a gray mining jacket with denim pants. There was a black, felt hat where his head should have been. Calvert was not concerned with the ghost’s sudden appearance. He had spent so much time interacting with Caffee that he felt he knew the ghost well. Calvert recalled what he saw that day in a matter-of-fact way:

Headless man
Caffee often appeared with no head! (Public domain photo.)

He was just a rumpled, funny-looking old man. His clothes were pretty nice, but they were old, dusty, and wrinkled. He was sitting on the bench facing me. I knew right away it was Caffee. But I didn’t reach out to touch him. I didn’t want to get that close. (Norman and Scott, 457 Haunted Heartland)

(Walker Calvert as quoted by Norman and Scott, 457 Haunted Heartland)

When Calvert glanced away, the man disappeared. He assumed the apparition was Caffee because ghosts of hanging victims frequently appear without their heads. The figure was also wearing a mining jacket, which makes sense given Caffee’s occupation as a miner in White Oak Springs. The only thing that does not make sense is the age of the ghost. Caffee died at 29, so why was the ghost so old?

In Haunted Heartland, Beth Scott and Michael Norman point out that spirits “can come back at the age [they] feel” (458). Maybe Caffee felt like an old man after spending all those years wandering the Walker House. Oddly enough, a waitress saw the ghost of a young man a few days later. He had a head and only appeared for a couple of seconds before fading away. Perhaps Caffee wanted to flirt with the waitress by showing her what he looked like when he was alive.

One employee accidentally gave Caffee’s ghost a ride back to her house. Debra Enerson said that she was leaving the Walker House when she noticed the carpooler: “I got in the car and I felt someone was there. I could hear someone breathing. I don’t mind the guy. He didn’t bother me” (Peterson). Debra also points out that Caffee’s ghost likes to come out in the morning and at the “bewitching hour” of “5 or 6 pm” (Peterson). At those times, the pub suddenly becomes drafty: “The rest of the place can be warm, but it gets cool in there. People can feel his presence, feel him whoosh past them” (Peterson). In addition to Caffee’s presence and the little girl’s spirit, there may have been many more ghosts in the 1980s. According to The Wisconsin Road Guide to Haunted Locations, there was an exorcism in 1984 to cast out the “seven spirits that were said to haunt the place” (Lewis and Terry, 82). Apparently, the exorcism did not do much good, because the sightings were far from over.

Part Ten: Sightings in the 21st Century

The ghosts kept rather quiet in the 1990s and early 2000s. After Calvert and subsequent owners left, the property was abandoned once again. By 2002, the Walker House was on the “most endangered properties in Wisconsin” list (Brown, 209; “Relatively Haunted”). Joseph and Suzan Dickinson bought the building in 2008, taking on the herculean task of repairing years of vandalism and disrepair. In total, the Dickinsons replaced over two-hundred pounds of leaded glass during their restoration of the property. Oddly enough, all of that glass was broken from the inside (“Relatively Haunted”). The Dickinson’s think it was the work of vandals, but there could have been paranormal activity involved.

With their haunting grounds disturbed, the spirits were on high alert. They came to like the owners but were wary of any strangers. One day Joseph Dickinson was away from town and asked his daughter to check in on the Walker House. It was a frigid day, so she went over to make sure that none of the pipes were freezing. Suddenly she encountered an unknown man who told her, “get the hell out, you’re not the owner” (“Relatively Haunted”). Joseph Dickinson explained that the man was “very protective of the building” and sometimes acted like a supervisor when he was away (“Relatively Haunted”). The mysterious figure stood at the top of the stairs and watched as the food was being prepared.

Aside from the strange man, there were also some other unusual happenings. For example, Dickinson’s grandson experienced the floor “weaving” underneath his feet (“Relatively Haunted”). Visitors allegedly saw floating heads and moving chairs (Akamatsu, 167). The ghosts messed with technology by draining batteries, making the phone ring when no one was on the line, and playing voicemails “that had been deleted long ago” (“Relatively Haunted;” Godfrey, 40). Cameras supposedly acted up in the Walker House. When they did work, the photos they captured featured orbs and misty wisps (Godfrey, 39, Institute of Extreme Beauty).

By the 20th century, the once-beautiful Walker House became so run down it was on the states “Top 10” of Historic Properties needing restoration. One-time owner Joe Dickinson talks a little about the Walker House’s history in this 2010 “Ghost Hounds” video.

The Dickinsons welcomed paranormal investigators into the Walker House, hoping that some unique publicity would bring them the funds they needed to keep the building. In 2011, the Relatively Haunted team did a special on the Walker House, where they attempted to communicate with William Caffee’s spirit. The Dickinson’s created ghost-related newsletters and publications to help with the fundraising efforts (Brown, 210). Unfortunately, they were unable to keep up with costs in the great recession and had to give up the building.

In 2012, Dan and Kathy Vaillancourt took over and have been running the restaurant and inn ever since. The new owners vehemently deny the existence of any ghosts. They even have a website page “debunking” some of the supposed ghost activity . Unlike the Dickinsons, they avoid reaching out to ghost hunters and fans of the supernatural. To them, ghost stories are just a small part of the rich history surrounding the Walker House.

Whether the Walker House is haunted or not is ultimately up to the visitor to decide. The building is fascinating to explore with or without unexplained presences and things that go bump in the night. Whatever the case may be, William Caffee’s bold exploits will not be forgotten anytime soon. If they are, he might just come back to refresh our memories.

Works Cited

Come back for more Driftless Lore by Nettie Potter next week!

Author: Nettie Potter

Nettie Potter is a writer and filmmaker living in Platteville, Wisconsin